Stud Sensor

Sweet! I’ve got an old cheap one that’s marginally better than knocking on the wall, but when we start to rework the electrical I think I’ll want something better, especially for mapping the diagonal bracing that we’ve got in our walls.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/

i have that same one , it works well but i seldom use it . it sure does come in handy at times though

Nice to hear some good things about this stud finder. Did you get the bigger one or smaller one?

-- Bill - Turlock, Ca. - http://www.brookswoodworks.com

I got the smaller one, Bill. The large one can be used to find wiring and plumbing. I’ve already driven enough nails in the electric and plumbing to know where it all is :[

-- Tim - http://www.tmuli.com

Hey gents (& lurking ladies) Here are a couple of my personal observations on this item.

first they now make a stud sensing/current sensing package that looks almost exactly like object “A” in the photo. It has a switch to change between stud and electrical mode.

Second, it works WAY BETTER if you turn it the other way from the photo. The sonar sensor or what ever this jimmie works off gets confused by the proximity of the bottom plate. It just checks density and held like shown in the photo it sometimes gives a false find. Flip it over or hold it up off the floor six inches or so.

Third, you have to allow it to “ping” empty space. If, when you first hold it to the wall and push the button, you accidentally find a stud and then try to locate other framing members you’ll likely get wonky results. It is best to calibrate it by starting from a known void. A couple of inches either side of an outlet is a good place to start. After finding a stud on either side of the outlet the rest “should” fall on 16” centers.

Fourth, the electrical sensing operation works by sensing EMF, Electro Magnetic Field. (I think) At any rate (however it works) it only works when the power is on. If you turn off breakers to work in a room or if the power is not yet on, like in new construction or a remodel, it won’t “see” the wire and you could still hit a circuit. It is not a metal detector. However it is possible to purchase one that is.

I have the “A” unit and it gives me inconsistent results. It could be the battery, but the lights and sound double action seem to be strong still. At any rate, I commonly get the blinking lights with an alert sound from the device after reaching a stud. Did I mention I hate battery operated devices that secure their compartment with a screw? I just want to replace the battery, not take it apart!

-- It takes a viking to raze a village.