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Topic by SteveKorz posted 06-10-2010 06:46 PM 4210 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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SteveKorz

18 posts in 3823 days

06-10-2010 06:46 PM

Topic tags/keywords: workshop moisture rust question

Hey All!!

About a week ago, I had a tree crash into my shop. It messed up the roof and crushed some pearlings. The overall structure was OK, but now the entire thing leaks like a screen. I’m doing a mass Exodus of tools and wood at the moment.

I’m ordering new metal and I’m going to redo the entire shop. I’m also going to insulate it with R9 1” foamboard, so I can work in the winter. Foamboard seems like my best option, since it is a post and frame structure.

My question is this: When I insulate this shop, I thought about wrapping it in heavy bisqueen plastic (6 mil) as a vapor barrier. I’m putting in a new entry door, 3 windows, and a new overhead door that will also be insulated, so the shop will be tight. If the temperature isn’t kept controlled all year inside, will this lead to a moisture problem in the summer? I’m trying to avoid all the moisture issues and cut down on the tool/tablesaw/bandsaw rust, etc. If it did lead to an internal moisture issue, would I be able to run a dehumidifyer in it during the “above freezing” temps for 9 months out of the year without it affecting my wood (warpage, cupping, etc)??

I’m really looking forward to your imput here, I’m sure that most of you have battled this issue over time. Since construction will most likely begin within 10 days, I’m trying to get my ducks in a row and plan a little.

As always, Thanks in Advance!

Steve.

-- --Steve



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UnionLabel

70 posts in 3180 days

06-12-2010 11:01 PM

Steve, this website should help answer some of your questions. Also, if you are wrapping the outside walls, you need to use Tyvek so it can let moisture out. If your hanging a vapor barrier inside, then 6 mil visqueen is fine. 4 mil is the standard. Don’t forget to tape your seams and to caulk your edges. Also, use the wire insulation rods to hold the insulation in place between the rafters.

http://www.btubusters.com/how%20to%20insulate%20under%20metal%20roof%20panels.html

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.

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christyh

5 posts in 3001 days

07-03-2010 04:03 PM

I run a dehumidifier on my shop to maintain about 50-60% humidity. . . it is set and will cycle year round as needed. This keeps my blades and tools from rusting, keeps my wood at a steady humidity. . .seems to work pretty well.

Of course, my shop is built into a hillside. . it is the bottom floor of a split level, so I have walkout doors on the east side, and a concrete block wall built into the bank on the west side. The north and south ends have 7” walls, blown w/Cellulose, and the east wall is the same, except I have two 6’ french doors and one walk-through, so those don’t give me quite the r-value. The ceiling is non-insulated as there is living space above it. It’s 50’ x 26’ and one small dehumidifier keeps it balanced without a problem, and needless to say, I need very little heating and cooling. . . now, all I need is time, ha ha. Christy Hicks

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ceszaraugusto

1 post in 591 days

02-07-2017 04:41 AM

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lonop

1 post in 246 days

01-17-2018 04:11 PM

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