By everyone #2: Now remove my profile

Blog entry by sandhill posted 08-28-2014 12:42 AM 3840 reads 0 times favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch
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97 posts in 3400 days

Well its back to the shop after a lot of traveling I hope to get these shelves done soon and start on the tile then the big job, building kitchen cabinets I have a tax id now so I can go to a supply house near me that only sells to contractors and you have to at least have a sales tax certificate to get be able to buy there at all so I am looking for some good pricing as well. Florida is strange with all the rules and license laws they have.

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5 comments so far

View MoshupTrail's profile


40 posts in 2365 days

posted 08-31-2014 01:25 AM

Not sure if this is what you need… When we painted kitchen cabinets with latex paint, we found that spilled coffee actually stained the surface. So when we did a subsequent kitchen we used an oil base paint. This resulted in a finish that was impermeable to water and did not stain from coffee. Definitely use a glossy finish. You want any splashed water to bead up and roll away.

-- Measure twice, cut once.

View recjohnson's profile


1 post in 1563 days

posted 09-03-2014 07:23 AM

The most vulnerable surfaces are the ones close to the floor, like the bottom-edge of the door and low-strung panels which take splashing water more often. The higher-up wood surfaces will be fine with any oil-based, like acrylic paint. For the door bottom you could put a layer of 2-part epoxy as undercoat. In any case, it may have to be redone after a few years. I would also suggest to maintain some gap between the door bottom and the floor.

I have a friend who tried a solution of thermocol bits dissolved in chloroform as an undercoat. He reports good success.


View dbray45's profile


158 posts in 1702 days

posted 09-08-2014 02:30 PM

Buy some shellac, thin it 30% and use this as a sealer. Sand and apply a second coat. This should seal the particle boards. Apply a primer and top coat (or 2 or 3) – I use an oil based Rust-Oleum, primarily because it dries hard and looks nice.

Otherwise go to a pre-cat finish – commercial use and difficult to use unless you are doing production runs.

-- Love woodworking and fixing most anything

View sandhill's profile


97 posts in 3400 days

posted 10-15-2014 12:10 AM

I went with GF milk paint as a base then white polly and clear coated then with 2 coats.

View sandhill's profile


97 posts in 3400 days

posted 10-15-2014 02:18 PM

More spam/

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