OK Mr Trim, today is your lucky day, I am posting so you don’t have to.
The pictures are taken with my PDA, so they are not the best quality. This first picture is me still finishing some cabinet doors going into the laundry room.
These are step stools, bought at IKEA for the short people in our household to reach the upper cabinets going all the way up to the 9’ ceiling.
Working on the closets and pantry. We are using laminated solid pine for shelving. I finished these with a lacquer. I bought an HFLP for this.
Now here I could use some advice. Around the fireplace I made some build-ins. The face is solid Poplar bead board. I ran this in my shop and even made the doors out of the same stock to match the face. BUT i used 1/2” birch ply as cleats on the back and glued them on. This made the doors warp very bad. I want to try this again. So I will get some more poplar and match the bead detail of the doors to the face of the cabinet, but how do I attach cleat to the back of the doors and paint them and keep the flat????
-- http://www.twinoaksgrowers.com
2 comments so far
MRTRIM
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505 posts in 246 days
posted 99 days ago
well its about time you posted something bull !! lol bead board has made a huge comeback the last few years .
im not sure im exactly clear on your doors . as im getting it your making doors out of t & g lumber . if thats the case my fist choice mrthod would be to run the t&g thru the planer and make it as thin as poss. without loseing any of the face detail 1/4 in. or even less then laminate that onto something more stable such as mdf .
if for some reason that wasnt an option i would choose my t&g carefully with little grain as possible or very straight grain . and my cleats would be solid wood and heavy as poss. not ply . ply only has strength on the edge not on the flat . then id say a nice fat prayer and hang em ! lol
PaBull
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288 posts in 192 days
posted 99 days ago
Thanks, heavy on the prayer part….....
let me get a picture of the doors I did and did not like…(I’ll be back)
-- http://www.twinoaksgrowers.com